Shoes on the Danube Bank - Budapest, Hungary

Tucked away on the banks of the Danube River is a monument unlike any I’ve seen before. A row of shoes casted in iron. The shoes stand there paralyzed, as if waiting for the owners who left them behind and are never to return. 

But these aren’t just any shoes. Together all 60 pairs form a memorial to the thousands of people killed by the facist Arrow Cross, the party formed in Hungary after Hitler toppled the Hungarian government in 1944 and replaced it with Ferenc Szalasi. 

The party followed Hitler’s lead, harassing and killing Jews. One particular way they went about it was by dragging people to the banks of the river and forcing them to remove their shoes (which were very valuable during WWII) before shooting them, their bodies falling into the cold water of the river and getting dragged away by the current.

Needless to say, it’s a striking sight. 

The Memorial was erected in 2005, a collaboration between film director Can Togay and sculptor Gyula Pauer. Each pair is designed in the 40s fashion. There are women’s, men’s and even small children's footwear, reminding visitors how the fascist regime didn’t show mercy to even the youngest of victims. Decades later, visitors still bring candy bars, little toys and flowers to fill the hollow space where feet should have stayed. 

A few steps away from the monument is Budapest’s magnificent parliament building. And yet, the small monument overshadows the massive building. 

 

Useful info:

The shoes are on the street, so you are not restricted to specific viewing hours. However, sunset and sunrise may provide for the best light.  

It’s also completely free to visit.  

Tower of London - London, UK

Once a jail. Now a treasure chest. The Tower of London has lived many lives. Originally founded around 1066, the tower was meant to be a residence for the royal family. It has all the key elements of a traditional fairy tale castle, including moat. But in 1100 everything changed. That’s when the first prisoner came to the Tower. And oh, what an interesting character he was. 

Ranulf Flambard is the first known prisoner of the Tower of London and also the first to escape it. The Bishop landed himself in the original Azkaban after being accused of extortion by Henry I when he took power. Ranulf had been a high ranking financial advisor to the previous king, William I, and had overseen efforts to improve the design of the tower. So, it’s no surprise he knew how to escape. Ranulf climbed down from the White Tower with a rope smuggled into his cell. 

Ranulf then fled to Normandy where Henry and William’s older brother Robert was plotting to overthrow Henry. However, the attempt was unsuccessful. You would think after escaping prison and helping in an attempt to overthrow the King, Ranulf would go back to prison or worse. Well (plot twist!) instead Ranulf was able to remain free and retired to a quiet life.

But Ranulf’s story isn’t the only fascinating part of the Tower’s history. Throughout the years the tower has been the home to an armory, a treasury, and even a collection of exotic animals. There are also stories of ghosts who still call the tower home, like Anne Boleyn who is said to haunt the Green Tower where she was beheaded.

Today the Tower of London is home to the Crown Jewels. The collection includes all the items in the Coronation Regalia, used since 1661 to crown a new monarch. The objects were used last for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. 

The most important piece is St Edward’s Crown. It is only used during the moment of crowning. The purple velvet fabric is surrounded by solid gold arches as well as royal symbols like the fleur-de-lis. Other coronation items include the Sword of Offering, the Sovereign’s Sceptre and Rod, and the Sovereign’s Orb, symbolizing the Christian world.

Visitors are not allowed to take photos of the crown jewels. But the impression they leave in your mind is just as permanent.

Ravens are another important part of the tower’s folklore. It is said that if the ravens ever leave the Tower, then the british kingdom will fall. That’s why there are still 7 ravens kept in the tower. These ravens are cared for by a Ravenmaster, part of the Yeoman Warders. 

As I headed for the exit, I encountered one of the black birds walking among the tourist in a ceremonious way as if aware of the importance of its presence.  

 

Useful info:
The tower is more than a tourist attraction. In fact, it also serves as the residence of the Yeomen Warders and their families, the Resident Governor, and a garrison of soldiers. There’s even a pub!

Hours:
Tuesday-Saturday: 9:00am - 4:30pm
Sunday-Monday: 10:00am - 4:30pm
Last admission: 4:00pm

Entry: 
Adult: £24.70
Children (5-15): £11.70 
Family (1 adult, up to 3 children): £44.40
Family (2 adults, up to 3 children): £62.90

Website: https://www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london/

Extraordinary Libraries: Strahov Library

Sometimes life takes you places you never imagined. And other times it takes you to those same places twice in two months. That’s what happened to me with Prague. Since I work in advertising and Prague is a popular destination for shooting commercials, I figured I would go some day. However every time one of my spots was scheduled to shoot in Prague, the budgets never allowed for both the writer and art director to attend and since I was the writer I would have to stay behind. 

After a decade of waiting I figured I just wasn’t meant to visit Prague. So, I took matters into my own hands by booking a trip for my mom, my aunt and I to visit the elusive city. Little did I know two months later I would finally be on a shoot there. And so it happened—I was in Prague during the Summer and then in Prague again during Autumn. A dream coming true twice. 

Lucky for me the second trip allowed me to discover the Strahov Library. 

I had a few hours to wander the city and decided to visit early in the morning, right when they opened. It took one glance from the majestic entrance to take my breath away. The polished floor-to-ceiling wood furnishings with intricate carvings were magnetic. 

The first room I saw was the Philosophical Hall. One of the two main rooms that compose the library housed within the Strahov Monastery. The other room is the Theological Hall. 

Each of these rooms were built at different times and under the direction of different abbots. The Theological Hall came first and was established around 1674. It is decorated in the stucco style with paintings dating from the 1720s. The Philosophical Hall was built under the direction of the abbot Václav Mayer circa 1794. This second hall is built in the Classical style and was the last major construction within the Monastery. 

Both halls have ceiling frescoes created by Siard Nosecký and Anton Maulbertsch.

The Strahov Monastery itself was founded in 1143 and had already survived the Hussuite War and the Thirty Years War before the library was conceived. 

The ticket I purchased at the door didn’t allow me to step into the library itself, I was only able to view it from the library hallway. So even though it was amazing to be within reach of such a beautiful space, it wasn’t the same as stepping inside. I recently read that if you buy tickets online and book a proper tour of the library you’re able to step into the halls and take photos.

Aside from the library, within the monastery there’s also a Picture Gallery and Treasury with rotating exhibits.

 

Useful information:
If you intend to take pictures, like I did, make sure to purchase the photo permission with your ticket.

Hours:
Open daily (except December 24, 25, and Easter Sunday)
9 am - 5 pm (closed for lunch 12pm - 1pm)

Entry:
Adults: 150 CZK
Family: 300 CZK (2 adults + max 3 children under 15 years)
Photo permission (no flash): 50 CZK

https://www.strahovskyklaster.cz/en/

Stonehenge - Wiltshire, UK

I arrived at Victoria Coach Station in London around 7:30 am. I had booked a ticket on the Windsor Castle, Stonehenge and Oxford Day Trip with the Evan Evans Tour company departing at 8 o’clock. This was my second weekend in London on what would be a three-week trip and I was determined to see as much of the UK as quickly as possible. This tour allowed me to see some of the greatest hits in one day. Exactly what I wanted.

So, there I was—a hot coffee and a printed ticket in hand—ready to go. It took me a minute to figure out what gate my tour was departing from, but after looking at the time boards and asking around I found my door, boarded the coach and we were off.

Stonehenge was our second stop. We arrived around noon and, while the sun was obscured by a myriad of clouds, the day was bright. We debarked our coach in a car park about a mile away from Stonehenge, next to the visitor center. Then boarded a smaller bus that took us up to the rocks.

I walked up the plains that lead to the circle briskly, eager to see the famous structure. My architecture and history Spidey senses on fire.

Sheep flanked the long walkway leading to the stone circle known as The Avenue. They ate away at the pasture without paying any attention to the hundreds of people passing by them.

And there it was. A series of massive stones lined together like a house of cards. Even from a distance I could feel the heavy weight that gave them stability.

The walkway continued in a loop around the stones leading seamlessly back to where I had come from. I had the option to do a few loops around but as I was strapped for time, ended up doing only one full circle. I turned on my little tour radio and pressed the numbers marked on different posts to hear about the history. I moved slowly, taking in every angle. The brisk walk that had taken me there now transformed to a crawl.

It’s hard to imagine that these stones where put in place 2500 before Christ. For hundreds of years, people believe it was Merlin who had built the iconic circle. Some even believe Aliens had something to do with the building. Considering the stones can weight almost 30 tons, it’s easy to see why the building has become such a source of interest throughout the ages. However, while scientists and researchers aren’t entirely sure how the stones were transported, a more accepted theory is that they were brought through water networks and moved around on wooden rollers.

There are two types of stones, sarsen stones and bluestones. The term ‘bluestone’ actually represents over 20 different types of smaller rocks found in a concentric circle within the larger sarsen stone circle.

But this is not the only structure found on the site. Before Stonehenge came to be in the Neolithic period, this was already an important place for a previous civilization. The earliest structures found on the site date from 8000 to 7000 BC, during the Mesolithic period, and it is still unknown whether these are related to Stonehenge.

The purpose of Stonehenge is still shrouded in mystery. But in recent years, archeologists have found this was a spiritual burial site.

Another fascinating fact is the way the stones are positioned. The structure was built so that the Heel stone aligns perfectly with the sunrise during the summer solstice and with the sunset during the winter solstice. At those times the light shines through to the middle of the circle. Today, thousands of people visit Stonehenge during the solstice to experience the mesmerizing event.

As I concluded my loop around the impressive stone circle, I couldn’t help but continue to look back over my shoulder stealing a few last looks as the sheep continued to graze and stare at the visitors without a care in the world.

Useful Information:
I bought my ticket on the Evan Evans Tours through Viator.com. They are a good option to book local tours when you don’t know much about your location. (Not sponsored.) But you can also rent a car and drive directly there and take it all in on your own time.

Hours:
Open Tuesday – Sunday
9:30am – 5pm (Last entry 2 hours before closing.)

Entry:
Adults: £19.00
Children 5-17: £11.40
Family (2 adults, up to 3 children): £49.90

Websites:
www.english-heritage.org.uk
https://evanevanstours.com/

 

Leadenhall Market - London, UK

If you’re a Harry Potter fan, you probably recognize Leadenhall Market as the location of The Leaky Cauldron and entryway to Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone film. However, while there are no real entryways into the wizarding world here, there is a sense of magic you feel while exploring this unique passageway.

I took the Northern line to Bank Station and walked a few minutes to get there. It was early on a Friday morning and the financial district was alive with commuters in jackets and slacks. Most of the shops were still closed, and as the rush hour slowed down, it felt as if I had the market all to myself.

The history of the market runs deep. Leadenhall Market dates from the 14th century and sits atop the remains of a Roman Basilica and Forum dating back to 40 AD. Parts of the base of the basilica remain in the basement of a barbershop at the corner of Gracechurch Street and Leadenhall market. It is believed that this Basilica and Forum where the site of the first market located at Leadenhall.

Parts of its history have been obscured in mystery. As the Dark Ages took hold of Europe, very little is known of what happened to the area around that time. But in 1309 the owner of the Leadenhall Manor (a lead-roofed house) opened its grounds to local merchants and by 1321 the area around Leadenhall Manor was already known as a meeting point for poultry merchants. By the1400s, it had already become the center of the meat and fish trade.

The Great Fire of 1666 destroyed a part of the market, but it was rebuilt with a covered structure for the first time, paving the way for its iconic ornate ceiling. It was Sir Horace Jones who designed today’s iron and glass structure and built in the late 1800s. 

Today, the meat stands have been replaced with a series of boutiques, cafes and even an award-winning pub. My personal favorite was the Pen Shop, located right at the center of the market, which unfortunately closed permanently earlier this year.

 

Useful information

How to get there:
Take the tube to Bank Station or Monument Station

Hours:
Public areas of the market are open 24/7.
Shops and restaurants hold their own opening hours.

Website:
https://www.leadenhallmarket.co.uk/

Leaning Tower of Pisa - Pisa, Italy

“Is this whole town is leaning?” 

That was my first thought upon setting foot in Pisa. For some reason, my photos kept coming out at weird angles regardless of how I positioned my camera. (And, sure, we had spent the morning at a vineyard in Chianti before heading there, but I promise you it had nothing to do with that.) There are some hills in the area and, with the subject of my photo standing at an angle, it wasn’t easy to capture a good shot.

So, why is the Leaning Tower of Pisa leaning? 

The leaning is due to the soft soil under the tower. In fact, the tower started leaning from the moment construction began. As soon as the builders reached the third floor of the tower they began to notice something funny going on, the building seemed to bend at an angle. Construction of the tower then stopped. 

Construction started and stopped again several times before the tower was finished. It took almost 200 years to build due to multiple pauses caused by wars, lack of funds and by the engineers trying to figure out how to stop it from leaning.

According to research, it is thanks to these multiple pauses that the tower was able to settle in the foundation and didn’t flat out collapse to one side immediately.

Since the tower was completed in the 1300s, the inclination continued to increase at a rate of about 0.05 inches each year. By 1990 the risk of collapse was imminent so the tower was closed to visitors and engineers once again tried to stabilize it. With the help of modern technology, they were able to remove ground from one side allowing the tower to straighten. 

It is believed that the sediments have settled under the tower and that it will be safe for the next 200 years.

The tower reopened to the public in 2001 and today welcomes over 1,000,000 visitors each year. 

If you plan on visiting during the summer months, like I did, prepare to be waiting in a crazy long line to climb to the top. I chose to see it from the ground and enjoyed it a fair amount. The best part of it is to play around by taking fun pictures.

Fun poses to try:

• Make it look like you’re leaning against the tower

• Get a waffle cone and put it underneath, so that the tower looks like the ice cream

• Make it look like you’re kissing the tower

• Holding up the tower with your fingers

 

Useful info:

The Leaning Tower of Pisa is the bell tower for the Cathedral next to it, so you can buy tickets to visit both.

Tickets are timed, so make sure you’re there on time.

Ticket Prices:
Tower: 18 Euro per person
Visiting the Cathedral is free!

Lido di Ostia - Rome, Italy

The Coliseum, the Spanish Steps, the Vatican. These are the first things that come to mind when you think of visiting Rome. And that’s just it. Everyone thinks of visiting these popular cultural sights on their Roman holiday and they end up becoming so crowded that it’s hard to enjoy them.

On my last trip to Italy, I had a spare night in Rome as I made my way back from Venice to New York. Instead of staying near the city center, I decided to stay near Fiumicino Airport. What a surprise it was to discover Ostia. 

Ostia is a neighborhood of Rome bordering on the Tyrrhenian Sea. This is where the Romans come when they want a quick beach escape. It’s also a popular getaway for the long summer holiday.

We ventured out of our hotel in search of dinner that same night. We walked to Piazza Anco Marzio, where palm trees flanked the long pedestrian street. The area was bustling with locals sitting outside and enjoying the different restaurants. 

We decided to go for Italian food (of course!) and it was the most authentic Italian food we had during our entire two-week trip. The restaurant was Antico Traiano, a good spot for late night dinners and seafood.The menus are printed to look like large newspapers covered in the history of the restaurant as well as a long list of tasty dishes.

The house wine was served by the carafe and the gnocchi were al dente. We also had grilled calamari, clam pasta and fried seafood. Everything tasted as good as if it has been prepared at home by an Italian grandma. 

The next morning we had breakfast included with our hotel and after filling our bellies with fresh fruits, eggs, cheese, yogurt and honey (which we spooned directly from a honeycomb) we decided to take a look at the town during the day time.

We explored the Pontile di Ostia, a small pier that goes out into the ocean with an observation deck at the end. The fresh breeze stroke our faces while the sun shone above. It was great to see people sunbathing and swimming. These were locals and this is where they came to vacation.

Kids played on a rock formation in the water to our right, while the statue of Neptune stood guard. On our left, bathers arrived to the Battistini where they rented beach chairs and umbrellas for their beach day.

As we walked back to our hotel to pick up our luggage a feeling of relaxation washed over us. There was simply no better way to end our Italian getaway than in this off-the-beaten-path location.

 

Useful information:

Where to stay?
Fly Deco Hotel
Address: Lungomare Paolo Toscanelli 52a, 00122 Lido di Ostia Italy

Where to eat?
Antico Traiano

Where to beach?
Battistini Beach

Bannerman Castle - Hudson Valley, NY

A fresh breeze and the soft crashing of water against the hull brought on a wave of calm. It had just started to feel like autumn in the Hudson Valley. The air was crisp, but the sun was shining and a few seconds under it was enough to warm up. 

The boat started to slow down and with a few yanks we came to a stop at Pollepel Island. There are many legends as to the origin of the name. One of them tells the story of a young woman called Polly Pell. She fell through the breaking ice of the river one winter and was rescued and brought to the island by her sweetheart. Prompting the villagers to name the island after her.  

However it’s more likely that the word Pollepel came from the Dutch for “pot ladle”. Since the early Dutch explorers sailed by the island continuously as they made their way to their settlements up the river.  

Today the name Pollepel remains the official name of the island, but most people know it as Bannerman’s Island. A name that comes from Frank Bannerman, the business mogul who bought the island for himself and build the castle. 

At first glance, Bannerman Castle looks like a traditional castle. The towers at each corner, a moat and the battlements. But unlike regular castles, Bannerman Castle was not built as a residence. (At least not a typical residence). The building was home to an arsenal. A place to keep Frank Bannerman’s surplus of grenades, pistols, boots and uniforms. 

You see, Frank Bannerman was in the business of war. 

A native of Scotland, Frank Bannerman immigrated to the United States at the age of 3. His father established a business as a salesman of flags, rope and other used items auctioned off by the Navy. When Frank was 13-years-old, his father joined the Union army to fight in the Civil War and Frank took over the family business. He quickly realized the items he was selling as scraps could fetch a higher value if sold as military goods.

At the end of the Civil War, Frank bought many of the military goods the government sold off to be stripped off as scraps. But instead of selling them as scrap Frank created an Army-Navy Store. Then after the Spanish-American War, Frank bought 90% of the weapons and surplus military goods. 

Frank Bannerman’s arsenal grew so much that the city was concerned with him keeping it all stored in Brooklyn, and asked him to move his warehouse.

That’s when he purchased Pollepel Island and built his warehouses in the shape of castles. Bannerman designed the castle himself, after some of the castles he saw on his trips to Europe and then had builders recreate his sketches on the island. 

Eventually the Bannerman business declined. As the government placed more legislation on ownership of military equipment, the sales for Bannerman’s arsenal declined. 

The weapons and paraphernalia remained on the island until New York State purchased it in 1967. The government removed a lot of the equipment, however in 1969 a fire destroyed whatever remained on the island. The Castle’s roof, floors and parts of the wall were also destroyed.

The island remained closed to the public for decades until the Bannerman Castle Trust gained the New York State’s government permission to stabilize the buildings remaining on the island and finally provide tours to the public. 

During our hike up to the castle we journeyed through a series of dirt paths and rocky stairs and got a real sense of what it was like to be here in the late 1890s and early 1900s. 

On the other side of the island a garden maintained by volunteers and the remnants of Bannerman’s personal home are flourishing once more. 

 

Useful information:
The island is open to the public for hiking tours, kayaking tours, theatrical presentations, movies under the stars and a series of other events that take place during the warmer months. 

Tour Tickets:
Adults (12+): USD$35
Children: USD$30

How to get there:
Take the Metro North Hudson Line to Beacon. Walk through the underpass to the riverside of the railway to find the pier from which the Bannerman Castle visits depart.

Website: https://bannermancastle.org/

Hora - Mykonos, Greece

We arrived by boat. The azure waves crashed in the distance against another sea, a sea of white houses stacked up as far as the eye could see. These small white cubes looked like perfectly shaped cakes covered in royal icing. And I was eager for a slice.

We touched land at Hora, the capital of Mykonos island, on the west coast. The name Hora is commonly used for the capitals of many of the other islands, since the word also means town in Greek. So it makes sense that the place is commonly referred to simply as Mykonos Town. 

When you think of Mykonos you probably think of parties at Lindsay Lohan’s beach bar and the like, but the island is so much more than that. Sure, Hora is bustling with clubs at nighttime, but in the morning, and for much of the day, the town is washed over by a serene atmosphere. 

“

"What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others." - Pericles

“

While tourists flood the typical attractions, like the Windmills of Kato Mili, it’s easy to get lost in the maze of narrow alleyways between the white buildings and find quiet spots all to yourself. 

Hora is also the home to many cultural gems, like the Aegean Maritime Museum, which harbors one of the largest lighthouses in the mediterranean. There are also countless orthodox churches with their blue domes. One of the most iconic is the church of Agios Nikolaos, the first one we noticed upon arriving at Hora’s port.

Windmills of Kato Mili

As with many of the Cycladic islands, Mykonos is known for its bright white houses splashed with blue details. But how did this unique trend start? There are many stories about how it came about, but these are a few I heard while I was there:

It’s believed the iconic blue and white pairing started due to the strong heat of summer on the islands. White reflects the sunlight and keep the houses cool inside. Back in those days, there was no mass production of paint, so people would use asbestos as the basis to create the white color. Later on, during the dictatorship, painting the houses white and blue became a law to show patriotism and support for the government.

I also heard a story from a local in Santorini that the trend started when the Ottoman Empire ruled over Greece. The foreign empire would not allow Greece to rise their own flag so they started painting the houses in the flags white and blue colors as a sign of rebellion and patriotic pride.

While many people have also started differentiating their own home by painting the trimmings in different colors, like green and red, today the white and blue houses have become a symbol for Greece, recognized all around the world. 

I spend half of my day in Mykonos exploring Hora and the other half laying on the beach while sipping Mythos, the local beer. We went to Megali Amos, a quiet beach and the perfect spot to relax not far from the town center. 

Many people will tell you they prefer Santorini over Mykonos, but for me Mykonos definitely took home the cake. 

 

Useful info:

How to get there?
Multiple ferry services depart daily from Athens and the other islands, including Blue Star Ferries and Hellenic Seaways. Many cruise lines also have Mykonos as one of their main stops during their Mediterranean cruises.

Getting around:
Walking around Hora is easy and allows you to enjoy the most of the location. However, taxi services are also available to take you to different parts of the island. You can also rent a car.

Hotel Il Pellicano - Porto Ercole, Italy

“This must be what it feels like to be George Clooney.”

That was my first thought upon arriving at the Hotel Il Pellicano. 

We drove for two hours from Rome to the peninsula of Monte Argentario. An island-like comune connected to the mainland by three strips of land. The narrow road wound around one steep hill after another. As we took each turn, I couldn’t help but picture small Italian cars zooming uphill the way they do in the movies. 

We parked at the hotel garage and were received with the warm smiles of the hotel staff. They didn’t care we weren’t celebrities. We still felt the VIP treatment. (Even though we were an hour late for our lunch reservation.)

Il Pellicano was a pitstop on our journey from the capital to the Chianti region. It was a place to decompress for a few hours while enjoying the beautiful Italian coastline. And that’s exactly what we did. 

As we descended onto the terrace, the view from the top of the cliff was breathtaking. Below us the terrace continued to cascade sharply onto the Tyrrhenian Sea. 

At the edge of the cliff, a set of stairs and an elevator await to bring you down safely from the summit to the beach at sea level. 

We ordered lunch at the hotel’s Tuscan Grill. Fritto misto, spaghetti with clams, and my favorite dessert: affogato. The food was delicious, but it was the view that created a real feast for the eyes. 

As I explored the venue, I noticed that their main restaurant Il Pellicano received one Michelin Star for 2019.

The Hotel Il Pellicano is one of those incredible hidden gems that I can only hope to visit again.

 

Useful information:

Tuscan Grill Summer Hours:

Lunch: 12:30pm - 2:30pm

Dinner: 7:30pm - 10pm

Address: Località Sbarcatello, 58019 Porto Ercole GR, Italy

Book a table: https://www.hotelilpellicano.com/en/dining/booking-pelligrill/

Contact: info@pellicanohotel.com

Website: https://www.hotelilpellicano.com/